Finished Measurements:
Fits size 7 woman's foot, but easily adaptable to any size foot
Materials:
2 skeins Premier yarns, Deborah Norville Collection, Serenity Garden Yarn in Hibiscus
1 skein Premier yarns, Deborah Norville Collection, Serenity Sock Weight in soft white
1 skein Premier yarns, Deborah Norville Collection, Serenity Sock Weight in black
Set of size 2 double pointed needles
Set of size 1 double pointed needles
Stitches:
K - knit
P - purl
Sl - slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK - slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog - knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog - purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc - knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 8 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across
Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 16 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round, being sure to have the right side (RS) facing you.
Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (20 sts)
Rounds 6-8: Needle 1 - K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 2 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 - K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Increase until you have 32 sts total (8 sts per needle)
Round 9: K across
Round 10: Needle 1 - K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 2 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 - K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 - K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Repeat Round 9 and Round 10 until you have 48 sts total (12 sts per needle)
Foot
Round 11: K across
Repeat Round 11 until sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.
Heel Flap
Work Needles 3 & 4 ONLY (24 sts)
Leave Needles 1 & 2 unworked for the heel flap
Row 12: Sl1, P across.
Row 13: *Sl 1, K1.* Repeat from * to * until the end.
Repeat Rounds 12 and Row 13, 8 more times (9 times total)
Heel Shaping
Row 14: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining stitches unworked)
Row 15: Sl1, K3, K2tog, K1, turn
Row 16: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 17: Sl1, K5, K2tog, K1, turn
Row 18: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 19: Sl1, K7, K2tog, K1, turn
Row 20: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 21: Sl1, K9, K2tog, K1, turn
Row 22: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 23: Sl1, K11, K2tog, K1, turn
Using a spare needle, pick up and knit 10 sts along the length of the heel flap.
Knit across Needles 1 & 2.
Pick up and knit 10 sts along the other length of the heel flap.
Be sure to keep the same 24 instep sts on Needles 1 & 1 (12 sts per needle). Distribute the remaining sts evenly between Needles 3 & 4.
Gusset Shaping (decrease)
Round 32: Needles 1 & 2 - K across
Needle 3 - K1, SSK, K across until end of needle
Needle 4 - K across until last 3 sts of needle, SSK, K1
Round 33: K across all needles
Repeat Round 32 and Round 33 until there are 12 sts per needle (48 sts total)
Ankle
Round 34: K across
Repeat Round 34 until you are three inches below the desired length up the ankle.
Ankle - Logo
Now comes the tricky part where you need to change colors. This will be very frustrating because intarsia is very hard to do on a circular piece.
For reference, your Needles should be arranged like this:
(Instep)
2 1
3 4
(Heel)
To make the left sock, set up your sts by moving 2 sts from Needle 4 to Needle 3 and moving 1 st from Needle 1 to Needle 2. This gives you more sts on the left side of the ankle, where the logo will be worked. It is easiest to combine the sts on Needles 2 & 3 onto one needle when working the logo, though you can keep them separate if you wish.
Below is a chart of the colors changes for the logo, with each box representing one st:
When changing colors, you do not want to drag one color from one end of the piece to another and over another color section because you want the sock to be able to stretch. To avoid this issue, just work from different balls of yarn.
I used two different skeins for the red. I wound a small ball of the black yarn from the skein, giving me two separate black yarn sources, and would two small balls of white yarn from the skein, giving me three separate white yarn sources.
Also, when you change colors, be sure to twist the new color with the old color yarn to link them together and avoid holes in your piece. Instructions for this technique are available here.
Finally, you will no not be working in the round for the logo. You will keep your sts on the double pointed needles in the circular shape, but you will be turning your piece between Needles 3 & 4 (at the heel) and working back and forth.
Row 35: K8 Red, K12 White, K across Red, sl first st from Needle 3 and wrap the st by moving the yarn from back to front then placing the first st back on Needle 3, turn.
Row 36: P across Needles 1 & 4 Red, P6 Red, P2 White, P10 Black, P2 White, P7 Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 37: K6 Red, K2 White, K12 Black, K2 White, K across Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 38: P across Needles 1 & 4 Red, P4 Red, P2 White, P14 Black, P2 White, P5 Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 39: K4 Red, K2 White, K16 Black, K2 White, K across Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 40: P across Needles 1 & 4 Red, P2 Red, P2 White, P6 Black, P6 White, P6 Black, P2 White, P3 Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 41: K2 Red, K2 White, K6 Black, K8 White, K6 Black, K2 White, K across Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 42: P across Needles 1 & 4 Red, P2 White, P6 Black, P10 White, P6 Black, P2 White, P1 Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 43: K1 Red, K1 White, K6 Black, K12 White, K6 Black, K1 White, K across Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 44: P across Needles 1 & 4 Red, P1 White, P6 Black, P12 White, P6 Black, P1 White, P1 Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 45: K1 Red, K1 White, K13 Black, K5 White, K6 Black, K1 White, K across Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 46: P across Needles 1 &
4 Red, P1 White, P6 Black, P5 White, P13 Black, P1 White, P1 Red, wrap first st
from next needle, turn.
Row 47: K1 Red, K19 White, K6
Black, K1 White, K across Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 48: P across Needles 1 &
4 Red, P2 White, P6 Black, P10 White, P6 Black, P2 White, P1 Red, wrap first st
from next needle, turn.
Row 49: K2 Red, K2 White, K6
Black, K8 White, K6 Black, K2 White, K across Red, wrap first st from next
needle, turn.
Row 50: P across Needles 1 &
4 Red, P2 Red, P2 White, P6 Black, P6 White, P6 Black, P2 White, P3 Red, wrap
first st from next needle, turn.
Row 51: K4 Red, K2 White, K16
Black, K2 White, K across Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 52: P across Needles 1 &
4, P4 Red, P2 White, P14 Black, P2 White, P5 Red, wrap first st from next
needle, turn.
Row 53: K6 Red, K2 White, K12
Black, K2 White, K across Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 54: P across Needles 1 &
4, P6 Red, P2 White, P10 Black, P2 White, P7 Red, wrap first st from next
needle, turn.
Row 55: K8 Red, K12 White, K
across Red.
Voila, you should have a marvelous UGA logo. The hardest part is over (until the next sock...)
Continue working in the round.
Round 55: K across
Ankle - Cuff
Switch to size 1 double pointed needles
Round 56-59: *K2, P2.* Repeat from * to * until end.
Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.
Right Sock
When working the right sock, do everything exactly up until you rearrange the needles. Move 2 sts from Needle 3 to Needle 4 and move 1 st from Needle 2 to Needle 1. Now more sts are on the right side of the ankle, where the logo will be worked. Again, it is easiest to put all sts from Needles 1 & 4 on the same needle.
Row 35: K across
Needles 2 & 3, K7 Red, K12 White, K8 Red, wrap first st from next needle,
turn.
Row 36: P7 Red, P2 White, P10 Black, P2 White, P across Red, wrap first st
from next needle, turn.
Row 37: K across Needles 2 & 3, K5 Red, K2 White, K12 Black, K2 White, K6
Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 38: P5 Red, P2 White, P14 Black, P2 White, P across Red, wrap first st
from next needle, turn.
Row 39: K across Needles 2 & 3, K3 Red, K2 White, K16 Black, K2 White, K4
Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 40: P3 Red, P2 White, P6 Black, P6 White, P6 Black, P2 White, P
across Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 41: K across Needles 2 & 3, K1 Red, K2 White, K6 Black, K8 White, K6
Black, K2 White, K2 Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 42: P1 Red, P2 White, P6 Black, P10 White, P6 Black, P2 White, P
across Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 43: K across Needles 2 & 3, K1 White, K6 Black, K12 White, K6 Black, K1
White, K1 Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 44: P1 Red, P1 White, P6 Black, P12 White, P6 Black, P1 White, P across
Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 45: K across
Needles 2 & 3, K1 White, K6 Black, K5 White, K13 Black, K1 White, K1 Red, wrap
first st from next needle, turn.
Row 46: P1 Red,
P1 White, P13 Black, P5 White, P6 Black, P1 White, P across Red, wrap first st
from next needle, turn.
Row 47: K across
Needles 2 & 3, K1 White, K6 Black, K12 White, K6 Black, K1 White, K1 Red, wrap
first st from next needle, turn.
Row 48: P1 Red,
P2 White, P6 Black, P10 White, P6 Black, P2 White, P Red across, wrap first st
from next needle, turn.
Row 49: K across
Needles 2 & 3, K1 Red, K2 White, K6 Black, K8 White, K6 Black, K2 White, K2
Red, wrap first st from next needle, turn.
Row 50: P3 Red,
P2 White, P6 Black, P6 White, P6 Black, P2 White, P across Red, wrap first st
from next needle, turn.
Row 51: K across
Needles 2 & 3, K3 Red, K2 White, K16 Black, K2 White, K 4 Red, wrap first
st from next needle, turn.
Row 52: P5 Red,
P2 White, P14 Black, P2 White, P across Red, wrap first st from next needle,
turn.
Row 53: K across
Needles 2 & 3, K5 Red, K2 White, K12 Black, K2 White, K6 Red, wrap first st
from next needle, turn.
Row 54: P7 Red,
P2 White, P10 Black, P2 White, P across Red, wrap first st from next needle,
turn.
Row 55: K across
Needles 2 & 3, K7 Red, K12 White, K across Red.
Tips While Working:
Since you'll be using a few different sources of yarn, you'll have many loose ends. Especially for the first few color changing rows, be sure to pull the loose ends tight while working.
The red yarn I used changed colors between a red and a purple-ish red. When working the logo and pulling from two different skeins, make sure they are the same color (i.e. don't pull purple yarn from one and red yarn from another).
Don't pull your hair out! This is very challenging to deal with, but you can get through it.
Labels: Patterns
